(This section is based largely on information supplied by Thornhayes Nursery)
Irrespective of type, all trees establish more easily and effectively if planted small. Furthermore, if so planted, these trees will tend to thrive, grow larger and live longer, than those that that undergo the physiological shock of being moved as large specimens. Trees planted small also tend to have a stronger root system, that is less prone to windthrow during storms.
Traditional orchards are characterised by widely spaced standard fruit trees, with stocking density normally less than 150 trees per hectare (ie roughly at least 30 foot spacing).
Pre-planting
Grass and weeds should be removed from the planting site prior to planting, either by physical stripping of each pit site or spraying with a translocated herbicide eg 'Roundup'. If the site is compacted; a pit wider than the spread of the tree roots and deep enough to break through the compacted pan should be dug immediately prior to planting. Pits dug in advance fill with water and thereby damage occurs to the soil structure. If soil structure is good, disturbance during planting should be minimised and a system similar to forestry 'notch' planting used with small trees. The only soil improvement should consist of relieving compaction and removing large stones. No organic material should be dug in. A slow release fertiliser may be useful in the backfill on poor soils.
Planting small to medium sized trees
Field or container grown trees up to 6-7 feet (1.8-2.1m) tall can be successfully established without staking. The tree should be firmly planted, about 1-2 inches (4-5cm) below its previous level in soil or pot. If the top growth is dense and out of proportion with the roots, thin out the head to reduce wind resistance. It is generally inadvisable to cut the dominant central 'leader'. On windy sites don't stake! Plant smaller trees.
Planting large trees
In certain situations it is necessary to plant large 'standard' or 'heavy standard' trees. They have to be staked, to anchor the roots whilst they establish. These should be short stakes that protrude no more than 12 inches (30cm) above ground. The stem must be allowed to sway in the wind to strengthen it and encourage the roots to spread. Tall staking stops this. The short stakes should be in place for one growing season and then removed.
Graft unions
Fruit trees should be planted with the union above ground to stop the scion variety making its own roots.
Post planting treatment
An area of at least 3 feet (1m) diameter should be kept weed free for 2-3 years minimum. This can be achieved with a mulch of organic material or polythene or a mulch mat, or be kept clean with a herbicide. An application of fertiliser around the tree can be beneficial, particularly in the second season after planting.
Guarding young trees
In many situations, particularly domestic gardens, no form of guard is necessary. A plastic spiral guard should be used if rabbits are a threat. The presence of hare or deer will require a taller 'tree tube', up to 6 feet (1.8m) tall to ward off Red Deer. Remember that newly planted trees may prove attractive to domestic livestock. Therefore, check boundary fences. A couple of sheep or bullocks overnight can cause immense damage.
Guarding orchard trees
Standard orchards are normally grazed by sheep and therefore each tree needs an individual guard. Traditional practice was to plant standard trees with a tall stake and attach a 6ft [1.8m] tall heavy gauge wiremesh tube to the stake. Tall staking has been proven to produce unstable trees with weak stems. Furthermore, the wiremesh guard generally damages the tree by rubbing or constricting. It is better to plant a tree inside a guard that is physically detached from the tree. This type of guard can be used for trees from maiden up to standard size and does not cause them physical damage. It consists of:-
- 1 Spiral rabbit guard
- 3 x 5'6" (1.65m) tanalised stakes
- A length of 3'6" (1m) sheep netting
- 3 lengths of tanalised rail or batten
- A length of barbed wire
- Nails and fencing staples
A 50m roll of sheep netting will build at least 15 such guards. Stock or pig netting is not adequate for this guard. It is designed to exclude sheep, which are the best means of grazing an orchard. Cattle and goats are inadvisable, particularly in a young orchard. On no account put horses in an orchard if you value the trees.
The overall height of the guard is approximately 4 feet (1.2m), assuming the stakes are driven 18 inches (45cm) into the ground. The stakes are driven in 18 inches (45cm) from the base of the tree, to form the points of an equilateral triangle.
